Silvassa, the hidden gem!

When I decided to take an unusual trip to Silvassa, my decision was questioned. I don’t blame them because the union territory is more famous for its industrial set-up then the natural beauty it hides in itself. It may not be touted as a quintessential holiday destination, but this unexplored destination has a lot of hidden gems in it, which not only mesmerises but also shows us how ignorant we can get.

Without paying much heed to others ranting, I started my journey towards Silvassa. My 6 hours journey by train came to an end at Vapi station. Silvassa was still 30 minutes away, so I hired a private car and embarked on the journey to reach my destination. While on the way to the vacation spot my enthusiastic car driver informed that this now industrial town was once a Portuguese colony and is currently the capital of the Union territory of Dadra and Nagar Haveli. While he elaborated on the history the time just flew by. And then he announced Madam hum pauch gaye!

What I saw in front of me was a winding road lined by Gulmohar trees of different colours on both sides of the road, whose fallen petals had set a red yellow carpet in my welcome. Aaah! What a feeling. My stay which lasted for four days opened my eyes to the scenic beauty and a plethora of activities Silvassa had to offer. And the best part was that the weather remained pleasant, in spite of visiting in the hot summer month of April. Here is a list of reasons why you will plan your next trip here. Read on:

Blast from the past

Since it was Portuguese colony once, the Roman Catholic Church located near the Silvassa bus stand is a treasure of Portuguese style of architecture. The surrounding of the church also houses some of the ruins from the era when Silvassa was Vila de Paço d’Arcos and transports you back.

Tribal trail

Unlike other holiday destinations like Lonavala and Khandala, Silvassa is not a concrete jungle. It still has its green cover very much intact. Because of this, still there are many tribal communities that reside in and around Silvassa. Do not miss on the opportunity to visit the nearby tribal village and treat you taste buds with authentic tribal cuisine.

Rich in culture and close to Mother Nature these tribes have worked hard to retain their traditions while trying to adapt to the new world.  Silvassa Museum also known as the tribal museum is a tribute to the fast vanishing practices which gives this union territory a unique identity.

Jungle book

While these were some of Silvassa’s chapters borrowed from its history pages, the wildlife sanctuary which approximately 11 km away from the main town will entertain the wildlife aficionados. The Vasona Lion Safari, which house the king of the jungle is a treat to those wanting some real time experience. Petting zoo of a sort is the Satmaliya Deer Park. There are many species of deer, some even endangered. It is an absolute delight to watch these beautiful creatures enjoy and play in their natural habitat.

Aqua fun

After experiencing the wildlife in Silvassa, head to Madhuban Dam which is situated on the downstream of river Damini Ganga.  The fresh clear water will sweep you off your feet. Just the tranquility of the place will arrest you into its magical world. Another haven for water sports enthusiast is the Dudhni waterfall. The waterfall like formation formed by river Damanganga attracts many local tourists. One of the haunts for water sports, these falls are perfected by the splendid view of Western Ghats that surrounds it.

Picture perfect

Dadra Park, about five kilometers away from Silvassa, is a home to picturesque lake, where many Bollywood songs have been filmed here. The nearby Vanganga Lake is also a hot favourite with the filmmakers and tourists. Remember 1991’s Phool aur Kaante? Few scenes from this film were shot at the Vanganga Lake near Dadra Park. Not, just this film but many more Hindi films were shot here. This location, I bet will leave you awestruck.

I’ll spread my wings…

I can’t particularly label myself adventurous adrenaline junkie. I like exploring new places and traveling but that’s it. I do occasionally have my encounters with various adventure activities that I love to brag about. Latest such encounter was paragliding.

View from the take-off point

On that day, I learnt that we were booked with one of the best paragliding school in Maharashtra and the activity was held above Pawna Lake, Lonavala. Actually there are two sites for paragliding there – one above Pawna Lake and the other one at Kamshet. But the Pawna lake site is more experiential and safe for novice flyer. The Kamshet’s spot requires hiking to reach a take-off ground, moreover it is very steep. Compared to Kamshet, Pawna Lake in Lonavala is safe and paragliders haven. The site is a truly a natural bliss with crystal clear water body surrounded by hills on all the sides. More over the hills and cliffs there are quite suitable for paragliding as they provide big and easy takeoff areas and have gentle slopes.

The entire group of about 45 people which was a mix of experienced gliders, trainers and novice, met at the decided meeting point, and we started heading towards the activity site. As we drove closer to the point, the soothing energy of greenery around gripped me. As soon as we reached the spot the entire surrounding was buzzing with tangible energy, as the guest present their discussed about the sport. While few were elated with the thought of what they were going to experience, they were some others who were biting their nails off in panic and nervousness.

While I was flying…

All of you please settle down, and hear our instructions clearly, said our paragliding instructor. Further he went on to explain the types of flights they offered. The instructor informed, first was a classic Tandem which was a basic flight in the air for 20 minutes. The second type was instructional were the instructor would introduce us to the workings of the glider and last 5 minutes of the flight the glider will be controlled by us. And the third one was acrobatic flight, where the flight is full of scary turns, drops and screams. As we signed our declaration forms, the excitement in my group suddenly seemed to decline. After the much cliched formality, we finally saw the first Tandem take place and to everyone’s disappointment it failed to stay in the sky due to a sudden drop in the wind.

After this fiasco suddenly everything came to a standstill, to which informed that we were parawaiting – waiting for the wind conditions to be spot on. Finally the wind took mercy on us and we successfully started our flights. Waiting for my turn in the glaring sun, I tried my hands at photography and captured every possible scenic frame. At last after waiting for good two hours my turn finally arrived.

As I get ready to fly
-safety gear and helmet –

When they called out my weight range (by the way the flying is done calculating your weight, your trainer’s weight and the strength of the wind current). The instructors secured a helmet on my head and quickly buckled me into a harness. As I got dressed in the gears for the flight my knees went weak, but my flight instructor made sure I was at ease and comfortable. As we ran towards the edge of the cliff, the glider caught the wind and we were lifted off the ground.

And in a matter of seconds, I was flying. What an experience it was! In no time, I got over my fears and immersed myself in the spectacular view around. It felt like an eagle, as we rose higher and higher above in the sky until everyone below me looked like small miniatures. In no time I was flying over the pristine Pawna Lake. In the backdrop were the hues of setting sun already scattered in the blue sky! As I reached new heights the picturesque view of Western Ghats welcomed me with tranquility. The view from above was a perfect blend of untouched, serene beauty bounded by hills and the lake.

I remember singing “Aaj kal paon zameen par nahin padte mere” before clicking this one

 And if I thought that was adventurous, my flight trainer said, get ready for some real actions. Imagine doing acrobatics high in the sky and that to over the lake!!! It was then when I experienced actual fear. First it was a wingover. Wingover is an aerobatic maneuver in which the glider makes a steep climb, followed by a vertical flat-turn, which produced an extreme rocking motion followed by swinging widely from side to side in huge arcs. But the finale was ultimate. We went spiraling downwards in a disorientating dive and saw the ground spinning. I could hear my heart beating faster than ever, as my entire body was full of adrenaline rush. After which I safely landed back on the ground on my two feet.

After a few minutes of landing, I wanted to fly high again. But since it was nearly Sunset it wasn’t a possibility. Since nearing sunset the wind had gone weak, we wrapped up the activity and returned back with a blissful smile and an unmatched energy.

Best Travel Channels on YouTube

Not everyone with wanderlust gets to wander. Most of us have to be tethered to our office desk for the better parts of our life. You may be running short on funds or friends  to plan a trip around the world. Or you might be of a kind who makes elaborate travel plans only to cancel them every single time. Just think of the hours you could have spent being productive instead of surfing around endless string of websites to make those plans.

Since you are reading this, I’m going to take a wild guess and say you know your way around the internet. So naturally, you must be aware that YouTube is a phenomenal platform for aspiring film makers and bloggers who want to showcase their wayfaring to the world, and be creative while doing it. As audiences, it lets you live your dream vicariously through these video bloggers who take you an unforgettable visual trip. You laugh with them and you cry with them. You become a part of their journey.

Here we suggest some of our favourite YouTube channels and video series that center around travel. They are guaranteed to make your coffee breaks more interesting.

Louis Cole

1. Louis Cole ‘FunForLouis’

The dreadlocked Englishman who trots the globe talking to his camera keeps the conversation with his viewers engaging. With over a million subscribers, Louis is perhaps the best travel ‘vlogger’ (video blogger) on Youtube right now. A big fan of coffee, hot tubs, Penny Boards, massages, and curry, Louis began documenting his adventures across a myriad of countries on his channel FunForLouis since 2011. His ‘Rickshaw Run’ series from India is one of the best representations of our country through foreign lenses. His videos are equal parts envy and awe-inspiring. “Peace out. Enjoy life. Live the adventure. Boom! ”, is his signature signs off.

Ben Brown

2. Ben Brown ‘MrBenBrown’

Ben Brown is close friends with Louis Cole, and you can see the two chums together in a lot of videos on their respective channels. A two-time World Kayaking Champion, by his own admission, is an athlete who thinks he’s a filmmaker. He was a part of the ‘Rickshaw Run’ series led by another great YouTube channel JacksGap. Ben has spent quite some time in South Africa living with his girlfriend. Currently he keeps himself busy developing his photography skills on his epic tours around the world. He makes the world look almost surreal on his Instagram and his Visual Vibes playlist.

Nadine Sykora

3. Nadine Sykora ‘Hey Nadine’

The Canadian vlogger has travelled in over 40 countries and lived in 4. Nadine is also an aspiring actress and chose YouTube as a creative outlet for film making. It’s hard not to crack up at her commentary when she calls a Llama at Machu Picchu, an Alpaca and then proceeds to play with it. Her videos cover her travels, her travel tips, and occasionally fashion, beauty, and pop-culture.

Mark Wiens

4. Mark Wiens ‘migrationology’

Based in Thailand, Mark is essentially a food blogger. He claims there’s nothing he loves more than tasting food. He started his blog called migrationology.com where people who love to eat and travel come together. His culinary adventures range from Borough Market in London to street food in Varanasi and beyond. The best part of watching his videos is the ecstatic expression on his face where you can feel the explosion of taste buds after he take that first bite. His videos make the food look seductive and irresistible.

Matthew Karsten, photo via mashable.com

5. Matthew Karsten ‘Expert Vagabond’

This American travel addict used to previously work as a photographer in Miami. But with a burning desire to explore the world, he quit his job, started saving up, and brought a one-way ticket to Guatemala. Today he has made adventure travel his bread and butter. On his personal website, he asserts that travel doesn’t have to be expensive, and the world isn’t as dangerous as one may think. He is on a quest to immerse himself in different cultures and breaking out of his comfort zone.

Sonia Gil

6. Sonia Gil ‘soniastravels’

A Cornell University graduate, and a language aficionado at heart, Sonia is a co-founder of an e-learning website Fluenz. In her ambition of learning new languages, she spent time living amongst the culture the language came from, and in the mean time discovered her love for travel. Her videos are short and generally consist of tips and checklists for travel apart from her videos from exotic destinations.

Mark and Alex Ayling

7. Mark and Alex Ayling ‘vagabrothers’

Born to people of two different nationalities, the half Californian – half Kiwi brothers have passion for travel running in their veins. They won a famous Bucket List video competition and spent the next six months exploring new places around the planet. Their Africa and Middle East playlist will give you a bit of an added insight on countries like Tanzania. They don’t just travel for pleasure, they also thrive to promote cultural understanding and create global awareness through their video blogging.

A Little Known Gem Called Jawhar

The last week of monsoons had set in. I sat wistfully on the edge of my balcony on a Saturday morning and the phone suddenly buzzed. It was my best friend. “So, Matheran today?” she asked adding a gratuitous smiley face with the Whatsapp text. No, I thought, not again. Trips to Matheran had become all too familiar and there were too many picture folders of it in my drive to bother with another one.

One of my colleagues had once mentioned going to a place which is supposedly the ‘Mahabaleshwar of Thane district’. The place is called Jawhar, though it has nothing to do with Nehru. Now a part of Palghar district, it was once a princely hill station. After that bit of Googling, I decided the place was worth a shot. I made a few phone calls and the four of us set off on a drive within the next two hours.

On the road to Jawhar

Mercifully, the clouds were behaving themselves, and the drive was pretty nifty with excellent roads. As we passed the concrete maze of the city, the world burst into an endless green landscape on the sides and we passed through thick canopy of trees over our heads every few minutes. This gradual change of scenery from city to country reassured us of having chosen the right place for the weekend. It was hard not to wonder where we had been all these years leaving this ground unexplored. Jawhar is a treasure for the photographer in you. Some of the pictures you’ll take could be wallpaper worthy.

We knew we were close when we came across a herd of cattle crossing the road at their own sweet pace. The place is all but touristy with its tribal scene. Google Maps led us to a tiny little resort near a place called Sunset Point. The surroundings of the place did look magnificent, being a plateau and all, but the sun still had some time to set. In the meantime we had our lunch at the resort, and the food was surprisingly good. Punjabi thalis have a habit of making you rather sluggish, so we decided to go for a walk around the place, clicking pictures along the way.

Jai Vilas Palace, photo credit: Abhishek_Kumar via photopin cc

We reached Jai Vilas Palace, also known as Raj Bari, after about 30 minutes of wandering about. As it turned out, it was the best time to visit the palace, since entry is are allowed only up to 6 o’clock in the evening. A random local who claimed to be a guide volunteered to enlighten us about the place for a minimal price. The royal quarters were once the seat of the Mukne clan, the guide told us, as we made our way inside.  Beautiful portraits of the Mukne family grace the halls of the palace. It’s the antique furniture that gives the palace its authentic regal flavour. Upstairs, we saw the royal bedrooms, and we were told there are some 50 or so, with a guest section, which is privately rented to important parties on occasion. The view from the terrace offered a panoramic view of Jawhar, the palace itself is surrounded by a huge cashew nut plantation, we were told. It is no Taj Mahal but if our TV gods decide to make an Indian version of Downton Abbey, this palace could be one of the leading contenders for its noble backdrop.

Sunset Point at Jawhar, photo credit- Pallavi Surum via http://www.panoramio.com

After that royal exposure, we went back to our little resort on foot. We nearly missed a glimpse of the dying sun, nearly, but the dark clouds did grant us that last bit of golden lining.  The area was tribal, and electricity was scarce, there was little sense in roaming around as the daylight had started to wear off. The light yet steady drizzle of the rains crushed our hopes of setting a bonfire late at night; well, we can’t have it all in life. The caretakers tried to compensate for the lack of the bonfire with some local trivia instead, as we waited for our dinner. Apparently, Hanuman, on his way to meet Lord Rama, stopped for a recess at the hill station, and fell in love with it. There is a spot dedicated to this legend known as Hanuman Point. Before I could make any plans of fitting it into our itinerary, my friend turned towards me and rolled her eyes. I got the point.

She woke me up with her booming voice the next morning. “Just look outside!” she squealed. Hiding my momentary annoyance, I went groggily into the balcony, and lo and behold! Everything was misty white. We couldn’t see past our compound. It felt like me and my friends were the only people left on this marooned hill station and we loved every second of it. Might I add, my phone had been good as dead for many hours now, thanks to the low connectivity in the region. I had never felt so at peace with telecom providers for those incessant texts was the last thing I wanted to see on this trip. With a lingering smile I took a long slurp of my tea.

A beautiful tableau of Warli painting, photo credit- Sachine

Before lunch that day, we went for another walk around the village. Being close to Gujarat, the dialect of the locals seemed like a mixture of Gujarati and Marathi vernacular, and we could easily hold a conversation with them for more than a few minutes. They belong to the Warli tribe and every now and then we would spot the delicate stick figured men and women engaged in their daily chores depicted in the Warli paintings on a red background. I was left with an uneasy recognition that the prints on my overpriced Fabindia kurtis originated from such places, and I couldn’t tell if the tribe folk make any revenue from it. The locals led us to Shirpamal, which is a welcome arch raised to mark the spot where the Maratha emperor, Shivaji Maharaj took a halt on his way to Surat. It is also the highest point on the hill station and is quite the beauty on a pedestal.

Top view of the Dabhosa/Dabdaba Falls

We checked out of the resort, but our journey wasn’t quite over yet. In my less than extensive research on Jawhar, each website I came across mentioned Dabhosa waterfall or the Dabdaba Falls created by the Lendi River. About 18 kilometers of road to the falls from Jawhar was flanked by green pastures and small lakes and ponds, which were, hands down, the best part of the trip. I’ve lost count of the number of times we stopped for clicking Instagram pictures with #NoFilter. If pictures on the websites were anything to go by, it was all going to go downhill from now on, literally, since we had to stop the car some distance away and walk a few steep steps to reach the bottom of the fall. It is more like a crater in the middle of the hilly folds. Upon reaching down we discovered that you can do the flying fox over the falls. But we were too exhausted from all our walks to bother.  The rains had set the waterfall roaring and made the slope rather slippery. How I managed to make my way down, without slipping even once, is still a mystery.

On our way back to Mumbai, debates on which is the better hill station filled the ride, and I sat there wondering to myself, does it really matter? We managed to have a good time on an impromptu escape, and I came back with a new picture folder, nice memories, and a blog post.

Reviving the Rustics – Farmstay with a Difference

Remember the days when you were asked to make a town replica for a school fair, the Menons took it to a whole new level in their grown up years. It was a passion project of the couple who wanted to build a world for their daughter where she could truly be one with nature, a place where she could bond with the animals, as well as, the very soil of the farm.

Tucked in the little village called Uddar, near Pali, in the district of Raigad, is a beautifully and painstakingly constructed private farm. Balaji Farms boasts of their successful planning of a land once barren, converted into a pastoral dream. A village in and of itself, each corner of the 5.5 acres of the farm is spruced up with a lot of deliberation. You name it and they have it at the farms- a plantation, a stable, cottages, a pond, a dining and recreational space, a temple, a plethora of animals, and a host of activities to do.

Everything that you will see and touch in Balaji Farms is made out of either natural material or recycled goods.  The owners had a dream of easing an urban dweller into countryside without compromising on comforts. The very ethos of the place spells freedom. It is reflected in the wide open spaces, the freely roaming animals, the spacious and airy cottages, a slower pace of living, and no signs of the concrete jungles for miles together; nature and life completely unbound from the shackles of the city.

Once you enter the gate you reach a charming little sit-out where you could take a breather after your journey from the city. The caretaker Raju will welcome you at the gate. Magic, a German Shepherd will become your best friend at the farm. The dogs are just the beginning of what is essentially an animal farm. As you go further inside through the pathway from the gate, which interestingly, is lit with lamps made out of old tinted bottles, you’ll be introduced to the other flora and fauna of the hamlet.

The animals are the heart of the farm. The cackle of the geese and the neighing of the horses and the chirping of the birds all sing the song of nature. The owners wanted the animals to make the farm their home. You will see the animals wandering around the farm looking noticeably happier and healthier than the ones you see in the city. The farm is also home to a natural pond. A flock of egrets always adorn the rocks around the pond. The cute sitting area on the raft over the pond is perhaps the best place to spend your evenings.

You can fulfill your equestrian ambitions as Balaji Farm also offers horse rides, with well groomed horses. They also have bullock cart rides. Not just that, you can try your hand at fishing in the natural pond within the farm. There’s a boat and a zip-line over the pond, where you take your pick or do both, why not.

On the way to the cottages, you could stop at the temple. The Balaji idol was the very first to arrive in the temple space, even before the temple was fully constructed, and that is how the Menons decided to name the farm after Lord Balaji. We were told that the temple has been constructed over the ground which supposedly, was home to another temple from the ancient times; age old temples were built taking into consideration the earth’s magnetic field and all the natural forces in tandem. Curiously, the temple environs always remain breezy. The temple consists of a Shivalinga, Nandi, and a Goddess. A sculpture of a great tortoise with a tall lamp perched on its back stands in front of the temple. The idols are all brought in from all over the country, much like everything else on the farm.

The dining area is made to look like a beachside Goan bar, with old tyres remodeled into chairs, the counter, an out-of-place but oddly well-suited beach sand, whiskey bottles re-crafted into lamps, hammocks, funky posters, a CD rack and charpais to spread your legs over. There is also an open roof right above the bar for you to stargaze while you are high on your Hookah. A more traditional buffet and dining sheds also stand close by. They provide for a more intimate setting. You can find wooden benches under huge trees all over the farm. The food is simple yet delicious Maharashtrian cuisine made with love and care by the cooking staff. Go a little easy on mirchi cha thecha, though.

Keeping true to the ancient Indian traditions of building houses from different parts of of the country, the owners have attempted to recreate them in their four cottages -Jal, Vayu, Prithvi, and Akaash, each having an ecological rationale of its own. Jal is made out of bricks and red mud, Vayu is built with bamboos and straw. Prithvi is covered by a stone frame to keep the warmth in during the winters and cool the air inside during the summers. Akaash, is in fact a machaan, a two-storied structure built far, far away from the rest of the houses, a place conceptually meant to be a writer’s den, which turned out to be a couple’s suite. It overlooks a pasture and a stream that flows into the river. Could it be more romantic?

You step into a different era as you rest your feet on the verandahs of the cottages. Right from the locks to the clocks, everything is from the times gone by. Even the electric switches would remind you of Malgudi Days. You almost start humming its tune. To give a good measure of the owners taste in collecting classic items, you may take a peek around the ‘Vastu Sangrahalay’ or the museum, where you will find an assortment of weaponry and other valuables like the clogs worn in the Netherlands (which are surprisingly light), ancient crockery, archery equipments like the special Mexican arrows that snap from their pointy ends once they pierce the body. The mirrors and wooden chests in the museum form an eclectic mixture of the colonial and the Rajputana styles.

Balaji Farms is a microcosm of a quintessential Indian village. You could spend a whole day experiencing the richness of the farm, or settle in for a few nights along with you loved ones to acquaint yourself with the village ecosystem created with an objective to find one’s true self within it, by becoming a very part of it.

Marking Our Trail in the Markha Valley: Part 2

After our moment of rejoice, the first leg of our journey was over. It was time to prepare for the descent. A rather long decline would easily take about 2 hours to reach Shingo. While we were sauntering downward, we came across lots and lots of marmots (Phia in Ladakhi) as well as the Royle’s Pika.  A Chorten which is basically a Buddhist Monk’s shrine stood as a silent sentinel by the rocks. Carvings of Buddhist (Sutra) scriptures on shale or stone tableaus are commissioned by people as offerings near the Chortens.

There are homestay options to be found in Shingo village. The country side is filled with occasional green pastures and sheep. From there on, Skiu is about a 3-4 hour walk ahead. The trail now follows the Shingo Nallah till Skiu. After what seemed like ages, we made it to the Skiu monastery.

Picture Courtesy: Dave Scott

We reached the camp site, around 2 km away from the village. There we see a confluence of rivers flowing from Shingo and Markha valley. The tents were set and we were ready to meet the nightcap. The bells from the mules threatened to keep us awake like the previous night, lekin hum bhi ghode bech ke so gaye!

The next morning, we commenced on our trek from Skiu to Markha, which is a good 21kms long. Though most of it was on a rocky ground, it was also on a well defined, steady path, and the walk remained quite pleasant.  But then, the fiery sun decided to unleash its fury upon us, the only consolation being the magnificent Markha River. We stumbled upon another Poplar log bridge whereupon we spotted quite a few trout in the river, but decided to carry on with the walk, stifling our temptation as the Ladakhis consider all living things sacred.

As we passed through the green fields packed with grazing sheep, the lines from Christopher Marlowe’s ‘The Passionate Shepherd to His Love’ came to mind-

Come live with me and be my love,
And we will all the pleasures prove
That hills and valleys, dale and field,
And all the craggy mountains yield.

There will we sit upon the rocks,
And see the shepherds feed their flocks,
By shallow rivers to whose falls
Melodious birds sing madrigals.

We make our way from Sara village to Chalak village taking in the natural beauty of this land untouched by modernization. The river has withered the mountains forming ridges along the way. Houses and shacks put together with stones, thorny barricades protecting the pastures, hoards of rams and yaks, their horns presented at offerings near the Chortens, filled in the idyllic canvas.  From Chalak, we embarked on the much awaited trail in the Markha Valley. Luckily for us, the river wasn’t too aggressive and our trail turned out to be pretty smooth.

About an hour later we reached the Markha Village. With a day’s worth of hike behind us, the campsite felt so welcoming. While you are on a trek and living out of a tent, you get to discover innovative uses of the limited stock of things you have, did you know that beer bottles made for a great Belan to roll your rotis?

The next day we went on for a bit of excursion around Markha. You would find one of the best Homestays in Markha here. They have a government sponsored BSNL telephone (with satellite dish); such phones can also be found in Skiu and Hankar. There is a school set up by the government with is in dire need of volunteers who can help and support the education and welfare of the village children. Up on a hilltop, you would find Shamunatha monastery.

The trail continued to ascend from this point on, and it would lead us right up to Kongmaru La. Chortens and carvings on the slates dotted our trail every few minutes. The carvings of Buddha and the ancient script brought out a sense of timelessness within us. On our way to the Hankar village, we saw a solar cooker and water powered grinding mill, stuff we thought would only appear in science textbooks.  On reaching Hankar village we stopped at a local house where we were treated with some warm Ladakhi hospitality.

We had arrived on the route to cross the Stok range once more. The reduced water flow and the semi-frozen state of Markha River meant we were in for a very cold night. We stuffed ourselves with some food before we could start on the long climb ahead. Post Markha, one usually camps at Thujungtse, but we needed to save the day as the weather had begun to get to us. The stone cairns balanced on the rocks marked the number of times the trekkers had been there, each having a story of its own.

Pejakha Campsite at 4500m was our next stop, it so very cold, the hot water froze in a matter of minutes. The subsequent morning, we decided to cross the range via Yok La instead of the Kongmaru La, as it was unsafe for the mules. Looking back after reaching a certain height brought us some truly astonishing views; the plains of Nimaling down below and the snow capped Kangyatse Peak looking tall and alpine made all the huffing and puffing worth it.

We tied the first prayer flag at Yok La which is at the height of 5200m, marking it as the first successful group of the season to scale that route. The downward descent looked rather intimidating at this point. And indeed, it was. It started with a slope which to our dismay was mostly just loose wet mud mixed with gravel. Chuskyurmo waited for us to cross this sharp and treacherous path. Thankfully we caught a stream where we had a little breather before we followed it all the way down. We reached a point where the Yok La and the Kongmaru La merged. The terrain became perilous again with large chunks of the pathways by the river having disappeared.

The frozen river feels like a Persian carpet under your feet after the wretched muddy slope. At Chuskyurmo, we found a little brook which spews out carbonated water, which the locals believe helps with joint pains and such. Shang Sumdo was still 3kms away, the end was now palpable. With a great sense of anticipation to finish, we almost sprinted towards Shang Sumdo and made it at last!

As a certain Mr. Hemingway had put it, it was good to have an end to journey toward, but it was the journey that mattered in the end.

 

 

 

 

Marking Our Trail in the Markha Valley: Part 1

You may never have gotten around to riding a Royal Enfield to Ladakh, no worries, a mixed bag of experiences is in store for you once you get there through other means. Get your trekking chums and put your gear on to start on one of the most popular treks in Ladakh. Cross the Markha Valley Trail, at the altitude of 4900 meters, where you trek alongside the Markha River that runs through “Little Tibet”, and is one of the world’s highest inhabited plateaus. Displaying a diverse topography across the landscapes and waterscapes, the Markha Valley is equal parts awe-inspiring and challenging. The best time for this trek is between June-September, as the temperature is not unbearably cold, and the sun isn’t conspiring to burn you down.

It typically takes around 8 to 9 days to cover the whole trail, where you basically cross the Zanskar range twice, consisting of two pass-crossings- the Ganda La and the Kongmaru La. It can be overcome within 5 days if you are running short of time and miss a few points. Now, as mentioned, there isn’t one fixed way to go about the trail. Here, we go along chronicling the path we followed in our trail.

We arrived in Zinchen village first, you can alternatively begin your journey at Spituk as well, but this route bought us time, where we gathered the whole paraphernalia for our trek including three locals for helping and guiding us, one horse and two mules to pack our food and fuel on. Trust us when we say this, loading up a mule is an art.

As we get acclimatized to the region, from Zinchen we set out for Ganda La Base Camp, a good 6-7 hours away (Rumbak, the largest village in Zinchen Valley would cross our path). On our way, we walked over a rather unreliable looking wooden bridge over the stream, these bridges seen all over the valley, are built by the locals who get paid by the travel agencies for their work. Slowly but steadily, our mule train caught along. The path here on, gradually started getting steeper. There was nothing but rocks, wild roses and nettles to greet us for miles.

As we reached Rumbak we encountered several tea-points, they were abandoned as we went pretty early on in the season. We also spotted a few Jungle Fowls and Bharals (Blue Sheep); their red-brown summer coat makes them extremely difficult to spot. In winter they have a slate blue coloured coat to match the topography. Just before the final ascent to Ganda La Base Camp, we passed a little Homestay in a tiny hamlet called Nyurutse. The glorious picture of Manikeo in the background filled our vision as we reached our Base Camp.

Make-shift tents were raised out of old parachutes, as we prepared to settle in for the night. The kitchen tent offered much needed warmth, as we sat there brewing tea in subzero temperatures, thanking the culinary gods for the invention of Maggi Noodles. As the hours went by and it started getting colder, even the mules left their grazing in the higher pastures and made their way down. We couldn’t find much sleep due to the biting cold and the incessant tinkling of the bells on the mules. By morning it had started to snow briskly and Ganda La was under a fresh coat. It was time to promptly pack up before the snow could get to us. But it did, anyway! All that winter garb purchased from the Leh Market came in handy.

The trail started getting more laborious as the snow got heavier. So we took the liberty to stop and rest as and when we could. Slowly we trudged along looking upward. There were crevices we needed to be watchful of stepping into, lest we end up waist deep in the snow. We finally managed to pull ourselves to 4900 m on top. The views of the Stok and the Zanskar range are another reason apart from the climb that would leave you breathless. The top is marked with those signature prayer flags of the Himalayas. The world was literally at our feet as we beamed over what we had achieved.

(END OF PART-1)

Breathtaking Kaas

It is a scene right out of a romantic Bollywood movie song – flowers as far as the eye can see, a cool breeze blowing gently, and you walking hand-in-hand with your partner. And you don’t even need to leave the country for this gorgeous vista. Just a few hours away from Mumbai (and even closer to Pune) is the plateau of Kaas where you can see this scene unfolding for just a few weeks in the year.

Kaas takes its name from the Kaasa tree and the region is now known as Maharashtra’s Valley of Flowers. The approximately 10 sq km plateau is a visual treat during the months of August and September till when the bloom lasts.

There are more than 800 different species of flowers and other plants including carnivorous plants such as Drosera Indica. Out of these, 39 are found only in the Kaas Region. Of course, you will not get to see each of these varieties at one sweep because they bloom at different times of the year. Due to this uniqueness, a large part of the Kaas Plateau is a reserve forest and is recognised by UNESCO as a World Natural Heritage Site.

If you go there early enough in the day, you can avoid the crowds that build up later in the day. However, plan to stay till noon at least. You might think you’ve seen it all in an hour but then you turn around and see a new bloom that wasn’t there before. The vast fields change from a hue of yellow to pink as the day wears on. At different times of the day, you see a different sight, adding to the allure of the place.

There are plenty of forest department officials to keep visitors in line. You are not allowed inside the flower beds – stay on the walking path and avoid trampling the flowers. You are also not allowed to have a picnic or sit and eat in the forest area.

The nearby Thoseghar Waterfalls is easy to miss but a must-see on your trip here. The parking area is nestled in a narrow lane that is easy to miss in the absence of signs. The small eatery here is a great place to stop for a hot snack like scrambled eggs and tea. The rains unleash the fury of the falls. There are three falls that gush out of the mountains into the stream below. It is one of the highest waterfalls in Maharashtra falling 1,150 feet (350 m).

Kaas has only in the recent years become popular on the tourist circuit, and before the crowds take over the charm of it, take a trip to this small piece of paradise this season.

Best time to go:

Mid-August to First week of October

Getting there:

By bus, it takes about 6 hours from Mumbai and 2 from Pune to reach Satara. And by train it takes 8 hours from Mumbai and 4 hours from Pune. From Satara to Kaas it is a 30 minute journey by local transport.

If you drive down from Mumbai in own vehicle or hire a private taxi you can make it in just over 4 hours via the Mumbai-Pune Expressway and NH4 with a snack stop. There are designated parking areas 1-2 km away from the main plateau and you can walk from there.

Stay Options:

There are limited options for staying nearby. There are some smaller ones located on the New Radhika Road. If you have a car then there are plenty of stay options in Wai or Mahabaleshwar where you can choose from small resorts to home stays, then drive to Kaas which is about an hour and a half away. Once you get off the highway the roads are scenic so you won’t mind the drive.

Try and spot these flowers on your trip:

Adenoon indicum mothasunki (endemic)

 Imaptiens balsemina (vulnerable and endemic)

 

Cyanotis tuberosa

Dipcadi montana

Drosera indica (carnivorous)

Eriocaulon tuberiferum

Flemingia gracilis (endangered and endemic)

Hitchenia caulina (Indian Arrowroot)

Impatiens lawii (endemic)

Pogostemon deccanensis (endemic)

Senecio grahami

Smithia bigmina berki (endemic)

Smithia hirsuta

Strobilanthes sessilis bukra (endemic)

Thumbergia fragrans

Utricularia graminifolia

Utricularia purpurascens (endemic)

Vigna vexillata halunda (endemic)

Romancing in the Rains

Taking time to connect with your spouse or partner becomes a difficult task when we’re running around in our daily hectic routines. To keep the spark alive, spending some quality time alone with your loved one not only rekindles the romance, but also helps you unwind from the daily stresses. Here are some terrific ways you can surprise your partner – choose according to your time and budget allowance or preference of activity. There’s no excuse now to not to take some romantic time off.

A Holistic Wellness Retreat – Ark Wellness Retreat and the Green Valley Spa Resort are serene, premium getaways not too far from the city. Relax, detox, and rejuvenate with some massages tailored for couples, and indulge in some delicious organic meals in a stunning setting. Heal the body, mind and soul as you experience the serenity during your luxurious stay in beautifully adorned rooms. Escape on an evening walk and spoil yourselves without the guilt while spending some quality time with your better half.

Go on a Private Trek – For couples who like to stay active, booking a private trek is the best combination of romance and fun. Get your privacy and gorgeous views of lush greenery and hills, and enjoy being outdoors together in the rains. You don’t need to exert yourself – there are many treks that are easy enough for you to enjoy together. Bhimashankar, Lohagad Fort, Sanjay Gandhi National Park, and Rajmachi are just some of the options.

Fly Over Mumbai – Have the buzzing city at your feet as you soar above it with your loved one in a small fixed-wing plane. Enjoy the romance of the moment and get swept away by the intoxicating sensation that comes with being above it all. Fall in love with the city again – this ride will give you memories to cherish forever.

Walking hand-in-hand – Take advantage of the many sea-side promenades in the city like Carter road, Bandra Bandstand, Worli Sea face, and Marine Drive. Or go to parks like the Hanging Gardens. Hold hands with your partner as you stroll along the well-paved pathways with beautiful views of the sea during the day or night. This is your chance to get to know them better, share your dreams, or just enjoy the feeling of togetherness.

Tranquil Stay in a Forest – Wake up to the sounds of nature and have your tea in your private balcony overlooking the green expanse as the rain gently pours down. Forest Village helps you clear your mind and takes you away from the chaos of daily life so you can concentrate on yourself and each other. Imagine the joy of walking on the soft grass bed, bare foot and the unforgettable high the oxygen-rich air can give you! Take the chance to rejuvenate your spirit, and reconnect with yourself and your loved ones.

Mould and Create Magic – Pottery might get messy but learning something new together is a sure-fire way to ignite some sparks. Movies have shown the sensual side of this craft and now it is your chance to recreate the magic. Transform your creativity into breathtaking creations as you get hands-on pottery training and enjoy the experience of moulding clay with your imagination.

Living in Glass Houses – Stay in a glass house that offers unobstructed views of the green expanse and the blue skies overhead. JenJon Holiday Homes offers unique apartments with glass walls so that you can experience the romance of the natural surroundings. There are also plenty of activities, both land and water-based to keep you entertained, and you can also ask them to arrange a romantic picnic on a small island for just the two of you. It cannot get more romantic than that!

A Tranquil Spa Day – With everyone’s hectic schedules, it is not easy to take time out to relax and reconnect with your partner. There might not even be enough time or energy to get out of the city for a day. Booking a spa day at a good spa takes care of all that problems. There are many spas in the city that offer full day relaxing packages for couples, starting from massages and sauna to beauty treatments. With your mind and body at peace, you get plenty of headspace to focus on your love.

Biking Around Town – On two wheels the air is fresher and the wind in your hair is refreshing. Whether you prefer the motorized bike or the pedalling variety, explore the city on 2 wheels. If you share common interests you can choose what you want to see or do and pick your route accordingly. If you prefer to lose yourself in nature, go to Aarey colony or SNGP; to get to know the city’s heritage try a route in Bandra or the Fort area; for the foodies there are plenty of options in Matunga, Colaba, and Juhu to name a few.

Long Drive in the Rains – Put on your favourite music to sing along to, pack a bunch of snacks, and head out on the open roads. The rains might get chaotic in the city, but on these roads it enhances the romance of the season. While Khandala and Lonavala might be obvious choices for a smooth drive, there are other less-trodden routes that give you the same pleasure. Tansa Dam and surrounding forests are just 100 km away; Bhandardhara with its waterfalls and lake offer awesome views; Karnala’s Bird Sanctuary and forests are a pleasure for nature lovers; and Malshej Ghat’s beauty is unmatched in the monsoons.

To arrange for any stay or activity listed above, get in touch with us at ByeByeCity.

Mumbai’s Best Cycling Routes

With the steady increase of motor vehicles in the city, it’s good to sometimes go back to simpler times. Driving the same route everyday in a car, you miss out on the many sights and experiences that the city offers. Cycling has made a come-back as not only a pollution-free mode of travel and an enjoyable fitness regime, but also as a way to get a better look at the hidden treasures cities offer. It is also a good opportunity to get your family and friends together and spend some quality time with them. So why not reconnect with this bustling city on a more personal level and get some exercise and fresh air as well.

• A Ride through a Portuguese Fishing Village: Versova – Gorai

This is a 52 km circuit taking you through the coastal stretch of West Mumbai with small fishing villages and mangroves to complete the picture. Plan a day’s worth of cycling and sight-seeing. There are some old churches, cottages and homes to take in. Don’t forget to try some authentic local delicacies like seafood and fruits of the toddy palm.

Starting from Versova Jetty you can take a ferry to cross the creek to Madh. The coastal air and views of the sea, and fishermen setting out for the day are reminiscent of life in Goa. Madh Fort, the spot for many movie shoots, was built by the Portuguese as watch tower in the 17^th century. From here, head towards Marve Jetty and take another ferry to Manori and Gorai. These villages were part of the former Portuguese colony of Bassein and the heavy Christian influence is evident in the culture and architecture.

The roads are smooth and mangroves are a pleasant sight all around you. There are small shacks and cottages scattered along the route, some residential and some that would sell delicious local fare to energize you on the way. Ride up to Uttan Chowk on top of a hill for a breath-taking view of the sea. On your way back, you can take a ferry from Gorai Jetty to either Marwe Jetty for Malad, or to Madh Jetty to return to Versova.

 

• A New Bombay Scenic Ride: Palm Beach Road – Kharghar Hills

Palm Beach Road is a stretch of commercial road that connects Vashi and Belapur, made more beautiful by the marshland on the flanks that are frequented by wetland birds. Depending on which point of the road you start from, this is an approximately 40 km circuit best done on early mornings when there is minimum traffic.

Ride these roads towards the picturesque Kharghar Hills, a part of the Sahyadri mountain range. The lush greenery and the Taloja creek add to your riding pleasure offering lovely views. Monsoons bring with it plenty of impromptu waterfalls and offer a chance to pause and refresh yourself.

Another option is to continue on the Utsav Chowk road and take the turn for the impressive Pandavkada waterfalls from opposite the Central Park. The Park is also worth looking at for its beautiful landscape and water fountains. Round off a satisfying morning with a meal at one of the many restaurants in the area.

 

• A Bombay Heritage Tour: Fort Area

Starting from and ending at CST, this 15 km circuit takes you to some prominent landmarks in South Bombay. This is best done in the early hours of a Sunday when the roads are not clogged with traffic and you can look around at leisure. If you’re travelling by train, you can carry your cycle on the local train provided you buy a ticket for it.

The route to follow is from Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST) – Sassoon Dock – Bombay Panjrapole – Marine Drive – Mumbadevi Temple – Crawford Market – CST

You could just ride by but that would mean missing out on half the fun. Explore CST, a UNESCO heritage site, a stunning mix of Victorian Gothic architecture and traditional Mughal buildings. Next stop on the route is Sassoon Docks, one of the oldest docks and the largest fish market in the city. You could even get something packed if you are carrying a small ice box. Drop into one of the many Irani cafes for a quick breakfast of Brun maska and tea to reenergize yourself. As you ride along the scenic Marine Drive, take in the Art Deco buildings and the diverse styles of architectural landmarks.

As you cross into the by-lanes of Bhuleshwar market, pay your respects at the city’s namesake – Mumbadevi temple. Nearby is the famous Thakker’s Bhojanalay for a lip-smacking Gujrati thaali where you can stop for an early lunch.

From here, head to the Panjrapole, a 176-year-old infirmary looking after 350 cows and other stray animals. Spend some time here to brighten up their day and feel yourself enriched by the experience. On your way back to CST, cross by Crawford Market for some shopping for a variety of items, from food items to clothes.

 

• A Journey Replete with Historical & Coastal Vistas: Mumbai –Murud

This route is for enthusiasts and preferably done over a span of 2 days, maybe a weekend. The cycling circuit is approximately 132 km in addition to ferry rides. Plan to stay overnight at Murud and visit some of the landmarks and sights around the historical town.

Start your journey from the Gateway of India by taking a ferry to Mandwa Jetty. Bauchadhaka is another nearby jetty that takes you to Mandwa. It is a 90 minute ride so you can sit back and enjoy the views or even catch a quick nap.

From Mandwa, take the coastal route following the trail to Alibaug and further to Murud. Stop at local roadside eateries for fresh fare, and at Murud, Patil’s is the place most recommended. You should be able to find plenty of small inns and larger resorts to spend the night in. As you leave the town boundaries, a small bridge across the creek present magnificent views of fishing boats moored for the night.

The next day, you can either head back the same route or take the opportunity to go to some historical sites like Janjira Fort just 5 km south of Murud or relax at Kashid Beach before heading home.

Preparations and things to carry:

• Your rucksack should be as lightly packed with essentials as possible. Pack all items in plastic bags to prevent them from getting wet in case of rains
• Water bottle of at least 2 litre capacity
• Sunscreen and sun glasses
• Poncho or wind cheater
• Helmet
• Jogging shoes are ideal
• Waist pouches can be very useful for keeping your wallet, camera, phone
• You can carry energy bars and drinks to have on the way
• ID proof
• A torch with extra batteries

If you’re not sure you want to invest in a cycle yet, why not try renting one for a few trips while you make up your mind? Here are some companies that rent out cycles in Mumbai.

• Cyclic Motion based in Navi Mumbai
• Happy Motorcycle in Colaba
• Jalaram House of Cycles on SV Road, Goregaon

To book a cycling tour in Mumbai, visit ByeByeCity.